huangyhg

brick residential roof/wall detail
i put veneer on a wall above the gable roof below. it can be supported by the wood truss and the studs easily. i considered lagging an angle to the stud backup behind pitched at the roof angle. i considered welding 10 gage wire to the angle 2 @ 4" oc vertical so every bed joint would have horizontal reinforcing. there's a little triangular space at the course ending at the angle which i figured to just fill with mortar.
there's other options. i could set an angle below the roof deck and move the end truss out to allow the brick to pass by, but i'm not comfortable with this. it seems to me more susceptible to water damage.
some suggest build a 4" wall below adjacent to the backup wall to independently support the veneer. this seems like a waste and still promotes poor drainage.
i checked architectural standards and bia. i don't find any help.
please review this and let me know if you found other good solutions. or weigh in on the options i presented. thanks.
the reason you don't see any published details on this is that it has traditionally been a code violation to support masonry or concrete via wood supports.
i'm talking about architectural non-loadbearing brick veneer. unless the code has changed, this is allowed for residential applications. the wood support is sufficient for code required deflections, shrinkages ect. there are specific code requirements about the bearing detail of wood support, but that's not my question or issue.
i'm inquiring about the practicality of the rake angled angle and alternatives.
- ok - for residential i see that the irc allows brick veneer to be supported by wood as long at the l/600 deflection is provided for and with consideration for all loads.
the irc 2000 has a couple of details that appear to be similar to your situation - see figure 703.7.1.
thank you jae. i don't have this reference. can you describe what they prescribe in these details? i'll try to track it down through the internet.
sure...
the detail where the veneer is supported by the truss is as follows:
1. they show triple rafters (this would be triple truss for you)which is adjacent to a vertical stud wall running up the side of the trusses.
2. then, there is sheathing on the studs, on the truss-side of the stud wall. and on the opposite side.
3. there is roof sheathing on the truss (horizontal) that extends over the top of the triple top chord and stops at the stud wall.
4. there is a steel angle shown with a horizontal leg set on top of the top chord and pointing away from the stud wall. the vertical leg is pointing up with its back to the stud wall....the wall sheathing appears to be terminated at the angle.
5. the triple rafters (truss top chord) are shown with some kind of non-described fasteners tieing the wall studs to the truss top chord.
6. the trusses are nailed together as well.
7. the brick sits atop the horizontal angle leg, has flashing that comes down the wall and through the second course line of the brick - out the face of the wall, and then down to the roof sheathing.
8. there are veneer ties shown between the studs and the brick.
that is the first detail where the brick is supported by the roof framing. they have another detail where the brick is shown supported by the stud wall itself.
it is similar to the above except that there are no triple rafters/trusses - just one - and it is separated from the angle by a small space. the angle is shown fastened to the studs with a pair of screws/lag screws/bolts - not specifically called out. other than that its the same.
i'd be careful about hanging brick on the stud itself - lots of eccentricity to worry about - the truss supported detail looks better.
you see, i have a choice for laying in angles in segments, say like 2 foot widths horizontally. and step them up the roof. i would prefer to just run the angle at the slope of the roof and make a mechanical tie to the angle and the mortar to prevent movement. movment of the brick isn't a problem for the horizontal segmented angle, but the detail must just be terrible to flash it, not to mention what it must look like appearance-wise.
is there a clue in the detail about a preference in this regard?
nope - but we have, in the past, called for a few intermittent plates welded vertically to the horizontal leg of the angle. its tough to align these plates with the brick head joints by welding in the shop - but even so, a good mason can simply cut a few bricks to allow the vertical plates to extend up between and act as stops to any sliding.
also, if there is significant brick extending in-plane beyond the end of the lower roof, that would be enough to keep the brick from sliding....if it is a dormer type return, though, you have nothing so i'd use the little stop-plates...you only need a few.
thanks jae.
i thought this is a common framing condition. so for others with experience in this, please share your thoughts and solutions.
even lessons learned by experience especially in regard to better flashing practices concerning this joint, i would much appreciate.
i have seen architects call for "step flashing" in these areas since the roof is at an angle and the bed joints are horizontal. i assume this is some pre-formed product for waterproofing these conditions. it looks ugly on the elevations but it must work. i agree with the stop plates, but are there types of brick ties that will resist lateral loads such as the brick sliding down the roof?
usually ties for brick veneer are geared specifically for rigidity in the direction perpendicular to the wall. in this case, the movement would be parallel to the wall in a downward sloping angle.

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